One is an actual USA version and the other is a Gotoh. I have a couple of ESP's with actual Wilkinson trems and they're fantastic. Not sure if they changed over the years but their Wilkinson trem was a licenced version. If that doesn't apply to you then it sounds like you've got a great deal on your hands. They use quality pots and they do a GREAT job of shielding, so the only reason you'd really need to change anything is if you want different pickups. If you like the stock pickups, I wouldn't worry about it. Some people say Carvin electronics aren't so great, and a lot of people choose to upgrade the pickups. Worst case if you change your mind, it's very likely you could sell it for what you paid for it. If you find a Carvin you like, snap it up. Also, they aren't super-well known like Gibson or Fender or PRS, so they tend to have less of an upcharge for the name on the headstock. The only reason they are so inexpensive is that they are sold factory-direct, so there's no middle man. The other two were really fantastic as well. To replace it now would cost well over $2500 I think I paid something like $1200 for it back then?Īnyway, it was one of the best guitars I ever owned. I also put an EMG 60 in the neck and an EMG 85 in the bridge, two SPC controls (makes a single coil sound like a humbucker - makes a humbucker sound SUPER fat), a phase switch, and dual splitters. I don't currently own any but I am kicking myself for letting them go, especially my 2001 DC127T, neck-thru all tung-oiled koa body & neck with gold hardware and a Wilkenson trem. FYI to anyone reading this, I am not bashing Ibanez, I still like Ibanez guitars, but there are guitars out there that are a million times better for less money.I've owned 3 of them. I would recommend playing one first though. The overall quality destroys any Ibanez though. It felt weird to me, but then that was when I was a younger and naive Ibanez lover. I played a Carvin at least 10 years ago, there was a used one at a local shop. Those contracts are based on money and/or free guitars. Like the previous poster said, i would never judge the quality of a guitar or company as a whole based on the endorsers. Of course as long as you aren't whammy happy the trem will last a long time. Even Satch and Vai have to have their trems replaced (that is a fact). Remember all Ibanez Edge tremolos are made from a soft metal, not solid steel like OFR's. They are more solid that edge tremolos, better quality. Original Floyds do change the sound, but for the better. If you do decide on a Jem 7V, try to find one made prior to 2002, they are much better than the later ones. I would recommend Carvin over Ibanez any day of the week. (no, I don't work for Carvin - I'm just a devotee) Take a long look at the options available and even call the customer service number - those guys are really helpful. If you have to have 24 frets, then go for a DC model with the 14" radius. If you want to build a Carvin that's similar to RG specs, then for for either a Bolt+ or C66 with the flatter, 14" radius. There certainly are many other differences, but those are the most glaring. The 14" will be closer to what you're used to if you've been playing Ibanez.Ħ - Carvin uses the Original Floyd Rose trem on all models except the 7x7 series, which feels and sounds a bit different than the Ibanez Edge models. You have a choice of radii - 12" (standard), or optional 10" or 14". You should note some very basic differencees between Carvin and Ibanez, structurally speaking:ġ - The Carvin DC models are all neck-through-body.Ģ - The Carvin DC, V22, and UltraV, models have a 25" scale lenghth, as opposed to the RG's 25.5"ģ - Carvin's Bolt-On models (Bolt, Bolt+, and Contour66) are 25.5" in scale length, but have 22 frets and a bulky heel.Ĥ - Carvin's CS, CT, and Holdsworth models are set-neck guitars.ĥ - Carvin's necks are a bit thicker and a tad more narrow than Ibanez necks.
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